The Warm Heart of Africa
"Malawi, a land of dreams and resilience, where the spirits of ancestors guide our steps. Embrace unity, Ubuntu, and harmony with nature."
Proverb
Malawi is a landlocked African country with a population of around 19 million. It has long been reported as one of the poorest countries in the world with an average income of US$ 1-200 a month, a tenth of that for S Africa. It is one of the least developed countries with over 80% of the population involved in subsistence farming and agricultural exports, especially tobacco, tea and sugar, which account for around half the GDP. It Is also rated as one of the worst countries for telecommunications which we can vouch for. Internet access was fragile.
We were coming down from a very intense time in Tanzania, exhausted by their consumerism and intensive exploitation of the tourism sector. We hoped to experience the lighter side of life in Malawi, celebrated for its smiling, friendly people, and its slow and easy approach to life, as well as its extraordinary freshwater lake and its exceptional natural scenery. It also produces the world's best gin (personal opinion!) and has a sterling reputation for high quality dagga.
Malawi's inherent likability has earned it the title, 'The Warm Heart of Africa'.
Border Business
We packed up early for the trip across the border to Malawi. We were travelling the Tanzam highway and our concerns were justified. Miles of trucks and a heavy police presence in a rather dusty, stony, arid environment.
As we turned south for Malawi the landscape changed, becoming more lush and wooded, winding between tea plantations before dropping down off the escarpment. Heat and humidity greeted us.
At the border there was a queue of trucks as far as the eye could see, but we managed to negotiate our way out of Tanzania without too much trouble. On the Malawi side we were besieged by touts who we duly ignored.
That's when it all went pear shaped. The entry, and exit, to the border was across a small 2 lane bridge and a truck had broken down blocking one lane.
Cars were backed up on both sides and no one could get across as each side claimed the remaining lane. We got clever and tagged onto the back of a Malawi truck which bulldozed its way through.
Unfortunately the luck stopped there as he stopped before immigration, grid locking us behind him and leaving us high and dry.
Eventually a tiny gap opened and we managed to squeeze through but we arrived hot and grumpy.
Immigration went well but the TIP was a different matter. In the office there were queues of people and lots of staff but no apparent relationship between the 2.
After filling in forms we were waved away to wait. They had only 1 computer terminal working and all the papers, trucks and cars, had to be entered by hand on this one station.
Telecommunications, in this country, as advertised, were dodgy. Everyone else just sat around chatting. Most were remarkably sanguine but my composure was beginning to crack. I was hot and thirsty. Touts kept coming in with tablecloths and cell phone accessories to sell to the officials, everyone was having a rare old time but no actual work was being done.
Well the story ends well, 4 hours later and we were sorted. Did it bode well for The Heart of Africa. I was definitely undecided.
Football Mad
Our first destination was a campsite about 10 km south of Karonga with camping on the beach. It was Saturday and the roads and towns were busy, lots of people playing and supporting football matches. We had seen quite a few people in football shirts at the border so clearly this is an important National game. The mood was jolly.
Initial impressions of the country were of poverty, chaos and vibrancy. There was a prominent representation of Chinese involvement in shops and building projects. The shops were relatively poorly stocked. Town planning was a bit haphazard without clear town boundaries. Basically the lake is one long residential area. It makes sense, it is a major resource.
We arrived at Mikoma Beach Lodge. A bit run down, it featured a reception and chalets with a beach bar and rather green swimming pool. We were invited to camp on the beach next to the bar and restaurant. There were no sites as such. No problem, we were the only ones there.
The ablutions were ramshackle and the ladies had live wiring trailing in the shower stalls. You had to choose carefully or you would likely get fried.
As we pitched camp a big Sharabang pulled in full of young men. They immediately piled out into the bar and pool. They were a football club out for a night out on the town. Now that was less welcome.
Lisa was convinced we would all be murdered in our beds. I was just worried that they would party all night and we would not get any sleep.
They were boisterous and rather filled the space but otherwise seemed harmless.
Anyway after supper we climbed into bed with the laughter of our camp mates and the click of the pool balls to serenade us.
As it happened, on the dot of 9 they were all rounded up and sent to bed. So much for a wild party. Thank goodness!
The. Mighty Mukuru Wanderers
Next day we got up early and sat outside the tents with tea and biscuits watching the sun rise and the fishermen coming in with the nights catch. Dudley wandered down the beach to take some photos.
The football club emerged and started time trials down the beach. The coach and the team doctor came up to chat and take photos with us. They were really sweet and friendly. The boys were on a football tour. They are the Mighty Mukuru Wanderers from Blantyre and their motto is Be Forward. It is the oldest active club in Malawi and have won the super league of Malawi 6 times. It seems we had stumbled across the Manchester United of Malawi.
Dudley came back from the village reporting much friendly interaction, people chatting and asking for photos. The Warm Heart of Africa alive and well!.
Malawisaurus
Our next stop was back to Karonga to see the Malawisaurus. A 150 million year old dinosaur a bit like a brontosaurus , whose skeleton was discovered around here in the 1920's.
Various fossils and partial skeletons have been discovered in the Dinosaur Beds of Karonga and date from the Cretaceous period.
Karonga is part of the rift valley where the earth’s crust pulls apart. Rifting unearths ancient sediment and rock strata, making the discovery of fossils easier.
Malawisaurus, unique to Africa, reached lengths of about 15 metres and weighed about 10 tonnes, was plant eating and armoured. Basically a big softie!
Although we eagerly galloped up to the museum it remained firmly closed. Things don't open early in Malawi. We could see him through the window, the size of 2 double decker buses, but unless we waited until 2.00 pm we were out of luck.
It was a discovery which would have to wait for another day. It was time to move on.
Sangilo Sanctuary
We were still a bit frazzled and so we decided to head for the beach again. Not hard in Malawi on the lake. We headed for the Sangilo Sanctuary just outside Chitimba
It is situated in a small rocky bay with a minute camp site. The bar and restaurant are down steep rocky steps nestled against the cliff overlooking a small sandy cove. Private in the sense it is inaccessible unless you come through the lodge or come by boat.
We immediately glugged a cool drink, put on togs and ran into the water. The only way to return to normal temperature. We spent the rest of the afternoon lazing on the beach, reading and swimming. A perfect reset. We topped it off with some sundowners which may have been a mistake. Immediately the idea of having to clamber back up to the tent was unpopular and dinner followed, after which the upward climb was distinctly unsteady.
Next day over buckets of hangover tea we chat to the owner Mark. He is an ex long distance lorry driver and he and his wife bought the lodge in 2000. She has a PhD in Epidemiology and works in Lilongwe, commuting on weekends.
It never ceases to amaze me how interesting peoples life choices are. It seems you can always change your life into paths less travelled, and make it work.
Cooking in the kitchen on charcoal burners
The Long Way Down
The main claim to fame for Sangilo is that Ewan Mc Gregor, and his mate Charlie Boorman, stayed there on the documentary Long Way Down which documented their motorbike trip down Africa. As a result there is motorbike memorabilia all over the place. Wooden carvings of motorbikes abound, showcasing the incredible crafting genius of the Malawians.
